The Metropolitan Museum of Art | NYC
Costume Institute insider…
When I was at Parson’s we had a wonderful class at the MET’s Costume Institute where we would don white cotton gloves and get to explore themes of garments each week on Wednesday mornings. It was a great class. We got to see all kinds of haute couture garments as well as actual period pieces from centuries ago. They have an amazing archive. Our afternoons were unscheduled so we were free to wander the museum. I got to know it quite well but still find myself lost there at times.
The Costume Institute is now housed in the Anna Wintour Costume Center. Ms. Wintour, chairs the Met Ball every year raising money specifically for the Institute. The exhibitions are a wonderful addition to the museums repertoire. I think my all time favorite was the Alexander McQueen show in 2011. That show really brought fashion and costume design to the forefront of many museums who have followed suite and done other amazing shows, like the Dior show at the Brooklyn Museum a few years ago.
This is the show currently at the Met’s Costume Center and it was a good one! Coming from a fashion design background, I can appreciate the artistry in all of these garments and admire the women who designed and made them. I just had to share it with you. It is so inspiring!
I think this was my favorite piece in the show. Designed by Elizabeth Hawes, (American 1928-40). The color and fabrics were amazing in person, the same iridescent midnight blue that I wore to my senior prom. I really like the way there is drape and fullness where a woman needs ease and it is closely fit to the bodice while letting the fullness flow over the hips to the floor. That halter neckline is so voluptuous. Just wow.
Next up, Claire McCardle, an amazing American designer, pre-Ralph Lauren. Her esthetic was the All American woman living her best life. The detail on this gown is a double stitched bias seaming which she did on a lot of her clothes. It is incredibly difficult to do this on silk shantung, of which this gown was made. I am not sure how they actually did it.
This stunning Marie Cutoli, (French), design had a ton of hand work; appliquéd leaves around the skirt and that ruching around the waist. I love the simplistic neckline and sleeves. Just the right balance.
These two also blew me away. I would wear either of them today, they are truly timeless. The beautiful bolero jacket sits just above the cummerbund on the Agnes Drecoll gown, (French 1931-63), pulling in the waist and framing the face at the same time. The gown on the right is a draping marvel with fullness off the hip that comes from nowhere.
Ann Demeulemeester, Belgium, 1997 | Barbara Hulanicky for Biba | Vivian Westwood | Tina Leser, American, 1948
I have always had a thing for suits and used to wear them all the time when I was a designer and working in the office every day. They just made me feel so pulled together and powerful. There is a reason they call it a “power suit”. I would wear any of these today as well. Especially the leopard print one.
So anyway, cheers to fashion and all that it empowers and inspires . See the show if you get a chance.